Pruning Methods:

One of the most important aspects of Clematis culture is the pruning method. Since the modern garden Clematis hybrids and selections in cultivation come from a range of different species, their growth and flowering habits must be considered at pruning time

First Year:

All Types: July - August, cut back to 30 cm, 10mm above a pair of buds (node) and lead new shoot horizontal to help make a base framework.

Second year:

Group "A"

After flowering, cut back to one metre, and subsequently years cut out weak stems after flowering.

Group "B"

July - August. Cut back to approx. 1 metre above base, subsequently years cut all stems back to a pair of buds. When growing this group in a mild climate they tend to get "the flu" during the winter. We recommend you to prune as group C (hard-pruning winter) this will delay the flowering little, but the plants is going to be much healthier with many more flowers and nice lush foliage !

Group "C"

July - August. Second year and subsequent years reduce all stems to just above previous seasons growth, within 75 cm of base.

When climbing in larger trees, the pruning should be adjusted accordingly. Group "C" maybe need an 2 metres stem to get into the first branches.

When growing Clematis montanas on fences and other places where you don't want an crow's nest My recommendation for pruning is ; When the Clematis montana has finished its main flowering they are pruned back to 1 or 2 pair of buds on the side shoot (not the main framework) much in the same way grape wines is pruned, this will give you a strong framework and an nice plant. When they are pruned give a good feed, compost, manure or fertilizer. Little corrective snipping will be needed on the strongest growing once, and last tie the wines to the support, so they not blow down.


Planting recommendation is for well drained soil

1. Use strong cane to lead shoots to climbing support.

2. Climbing support on wall or tree-trunk.

3. Small plant to shade base of Clematis.

4. Clematis Group "B" & "C" Plant with top level of rootball 15 cm deep

4. Clematis Group "A" Plant with top level of rootball 5 cm deep

5. Mix of soil and good compost, plus bonemeal or slow release fertilizer.

6. Garden compost or well rotten manure (mushroom compost) 10 cm.

Remember to tie cane to climbing support. Plant at least 30 cm from house walls.


Start digging a hole approx. 50 x 50 cm and 50 cm deep be sure the planting hole is well drained and not will collect water so the plant get waterlogged, if planting along an house wall then dig an hole along the wall at least 1 meter long 35 cm wide and 50 cm deep at least 30 cm from the wall. Next place manure in bottom of hole and then fill with compost soil mix to height where the bottom of Clematis is going to sit. Place plant with PB (plastic-bag) in the hole and then cut the PB (plastic-bag) down the sides in 4 or 5 places after it placed in the hole and fold bag down and bury the bag !

Don't Try to take the PB off you will probably break the stem and loose the plant!!!!

When planted deep, they will sprout again, it is rarely they will die from wilt!

I think PB's (Plastic-Bags)are superior to Hard Pots for Clematis, when handled in the right way! It is near impossible to get a Clematis out of a hard pot without breaking it and then loose it to Clematis-wilt if not cut back to below the breaking point.

Natural Gypsum

It is a wide spread assumption that Clematis need Lime;

This come from observation that "Old mans beard" (Clematis vitalba) generally grows on limestone in Britain, here in NZ we know this is not true, Clematis will grow equally well in peat with a pH 4 as in limestone pH 9.

Here we come to the crunch, all plants use calcium! Now, where can we get a high calcium supply without raising the pH level? The answer is Natural Gypsum!

Gypsum is more than 5 times as soluble as lime and 3 times as soluble as quick lime! It doesn't change the pH level and it doesn't burn like lime!

Lime is calcium carbonate and gypsum is calcium sulphate.

Calcium is used in plants to strengthen the cell walls (like our bones) when readily available it will strengthen the stems of your Clematis and help it to resist wilt! Coarse gypsum will work as a slow release calcium supply and is therefore to prefer for planting of perennial plants, when to use as an instant release in the vege-garden use the fine.

Trichopel the friendly fungus !

We hope this is the solution for protection our plants against the dreadful Clematis Wilt . We have been using Trichopel in our propagating mix for the past three years and in our potting mix the last year. We are quite satisfied with the product, but clear proof takes some thorough trialing. Store Trichopel in the refrigerator.

We guarantee this Product works well! In cases where it is not working we are willing to withdraw this guarantee!

Trichopel 100 gram foilpack $9 sufficient for treating 5-10 Clematis

or approx. 3 Rhodos PB 12 against phytopthora

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